Unlike our roads, our waterways have no painted lines or stoplights to guide us in traffic. So how do we avoid colliding with other boats—especially when they can come from so many different directions? Well, just like our asphalt highways, there are rules that govern the conduct of boats meeting. Professional mariners must demonstrate their knowledge and understanding of the rules of the nautical road by passing written exams. Most amateur boaters aren’t required to take even the equivalent of Driver’s Ed before they take the helm, but if you don’t learn the basics, you’re taking unnecessary risks. Rather than hope that the high-speed craft bearing down on your boat has a pro at the helm or is operated by a clairvoyant, it makes sense to drive defensively to avoid collisions. Here are six general rules and concepts that will help you stay out of harm’s way:

• Always keep a lookout.
• Travel at a safe speed.
• When overtaking or passing, the boat being passed has the right-of-way. Keep clear of it.
• When meeting head-on, keep to the right.
• When crossing paths, the boat on the right has the right of way. Slow down or change course and permit it to pass.
• Always use your running lights at night and in times of restricted visibility.

Another key practice to learn is, when you’ve decided you will change course to keep clear, make an early and large course change so your intentions are clear to the other boat captain. Avoid small, incremental or last-minute changes because it may be difficult for the opposing boat to react quickly. Certain types of boats, like sailboats, generally have the right-of-way over other power boats. This has more to do with their capability to “keep clear” and avoid a collision. We say generally have the right of way, because there are exceptions. Vessels engaged in activities that limit their ability to maneuver have the right-of-way over other vessels. For example, a sailboat has rights over a powerboat, or a large tanker navigating a narrow channel has rights over all small vessels. Even when two powerboats meet, one boat technically has the right-of-way (often referred to as the stand-on vessel) while the other boat is “burdened” to give the right-of-way (often referred to as the “give-way” vessel), assuming that the vessels are within sight of each other. Another rule to keep in mind is the “tonnage rule.” This is not an actual rule, but generally when the other boat is MUCH larger than yours and could crush you—the prudent move is to stay out of the way!

Signal with your horn

Using horn signals is another easy way to notify other boats of your intent to pass them. Here are some of the most common signals and what they signify: One short blast: “I intend to leave you on my port side.” Two short blasts: “I intend to leave you on my starboard side.” Three short blasts: “I am operating astern propulsion.” Five or more short blasts: Danger signal. One prolonged blast is a warning signal given when approaching a blind spot such as a curve in a channel, or when coming out of a slip where your vessel may be obstructed from view.

Make radio contact

If the horn signals don’t seem to work, use your boat’s VHF radio. Hail on channel 16 or 13 to make contact and then switch to a working channel. Give your position in relation to some nearby landmark, not latitude and longitude, as no one has time to plot your position. For example, “This is the blue powerboat exiting the Hog Island Channel at Cleveland Ledge light calling the east-bound tug and tow on my port bow…” Commercial vessels will typically give “security” calls at certain points along their route; simply monitoring the radio will give you an idea of what is going on around you.

Passing in the night

At night, boats have red (port or left side) and green (starboard or right side) sidelights for a reason—so you can determine how you are approaching another boat. One good way to think of this is like traffic lights, if you can see another boat’s red side light, stop or give way. If it’s green, you can keep going. If you are overtaking a boat from astern and can see its white stern light, stay out of the way, regardless of the type of boat. Remember your boat’s “danger zone.” From dead ahead to just behind your starboard beam—yield to boats in this zone.

Avoiding collisions

How do you know if a collision could be coming? When an approaching vessel gets closer but doesn’t change in bearing, you are on a collision course. A steady bearing is easy to see if there’s land in the background; the other boat is holding the exact same position against the land behind it. Always be courteous and if you do change course to avoid another boat, make the change early and large enough to show the other boat your intentions.

If you have a zippy little sports car, you know that it can accelerate, stop, and maneuver better than a big truck. Towing a boat on a trailer will change the way any vehicle handles to a more truck-like response—even if you are hauling it behind a Maserati.  Regardless of your tow vehicle, here are some tips for towing a boat to keep you safe.

1. When loading the boat on your trailer, distribute weight evenly from side to side and lengthwise. This may require redistributing equipment, fuel, and water onboard the boat to achieve the right balance.
2. Both the tow vehicle and trailer should be nearly parallel to the ground. Check the tongue weight to make sure you are not overloading the hitch; it should weigh about ten percent of the all-up trailer weight. (For example, if the boat and trailer weigh 5,000 pounds, there should be 500 pounds of tongue weight.)
3. Always secure the boat to the trailer with ratchet straps and ensure the trailer winch strap is attached to the bow eye.
4. A towed boat adds weight to the overall vehicle, so allow more time for stopping. Avoid sudden turns, starts, or stops that can affect trailer stability. Engage low gear when driving downhill.
5. Make sure your trailer lights are working, and use them even in daylight.
6. Before you start out, always perform a walk-around inspection of the trailer. A prudent rule of thumb is to check it again after 1, 10, and 100 miles of driving, in case a strap has come loose.
7. Carry a spare tire that fits your trailer, a grease gun, a lug wrench that fits the tires, and a tire gauge.

By following these simple guidelines you should find that towing your boat is uneventful and gets you where you’re going safely.

Boats with either gasoline or diesel engines can suffer poor performance and damage if their fuel is contaminated. If you look out and there’s black smoke pouring out of the exhaust, that’s a pretty good indication that something’s gone awry! You may also experience excessive smoke, lack of power, hesitation in acceleration, or outright stalling. No one wants to be stranded, so let’s look at what you should know about your boat’s fuel, how it gets contaminated and how best to prevent contamination.

Water is the most common contaminant found in both gas and diesel fuel.

Water is the most common contaminant found in both gas and diesel fuel. Water in gas, particularly ethanol-boosted gas that attracts water, is quite common in pleasure boats that go unused for prolonged periods. Air in less-than-full fuel tanks contains moisture. Over time this moisture condenses in the tank and is one reason why, regardless of fuel type, tanks should be topped off during storage periods, leaving less room for condensation. Water can also intrude storage tanks through poorly sealed fuel caps and vents during boat fueling. Less likely, but not unknown, is the fact that water can be introduced into your fuel directly from a supplier. Occasionally, adding a simple “dry gas” additive  when fueling your boat during the season is a good idea. Whatever the source, it is estimated that in diesel engines, 90 percent of all problems are fuel-related. Fuel system inspection should be top-of-mind with boaters. Find the Problem If your boat experiences any of the symptoms of contaminated fuel listed above, you should start by examining your boat’s fuel filters. Small outboards with external tanks will have an inline filter; larger boats with internal tanks may have more elaborate filters between the engine and tank, such as a Racor water separator.  Sometimes, simply cleaning and replacing filters will eliminate the small amount of water or contaminant present in your fuel system, but a clogged filter should lead you to a more thorough visual inspection of the inside of tanks if possible--look for evidence of rust, corrosion or sediment.

The only real cures for fuel contamination are to completely replace the fuel or hire a company to do fuel polishing (filtration) along with a thorough tank cleaning.

Water or debris in the fuel can also lead to deeper problems, namely damaged fuel tanks and blown engines. Microbes that feed on hydrocarbons cause sludge, but can only flourish if water is present. These same algae emit sulphuric acid as a waste product which further corrodes metal tanks, pumps, and injectors. Water vaporizing in an engine’s cylinders can cause permanent damage—which is why we have all these filters to begin with. The only real cures for fuel contamination are to completely replace the fuel or hire a company to do fuel polishing (filtration) along with a thorough tank cleaning. The presence of algae, discoloration, or sediment should prompt any boat owner to act quickly. Simply adding products like Biobor to fight algae in an already fouled system will only bring the problem past the filters and into the engine.  Biobor and similar products should be used as preventatives to algae growth, not cures. Near the end of the boating season, it’s recommended to:

• Add a fuel stabilizer, specific to your fuel type, and run your engine long enough to draw the enhanced fuel into the engine—this will keep the fuel from breaking down over time and gumming up your carburetor or fuel injectors.
• Inspect your fuel filters annually—lay-up time is a good time for this. Again, if you have water or contaminants in your filters check for further problems. A water indicating paste can be used to “stick” your tanks if visual access is limited.
• Top your tanks off with fuel. This will minimize air and condensation from getting in your fuel.

Clean, fresh fuel will maximize engine performance and give you peace of mind to enjoy boating.

It would be crazy to hit the ski slopes without the proper apparel or sky dive without a parachute, right? The funny thing is that people do something just as risky when they head out on a motorcycle with little or no protective gear. They arm themselves with just a thin layer of clothing, no head protection and inappropriate footwear. Instead of limiting enjoyment, proper gear can actually add to your riding comfort and of course, prolong your life. As tempting as it might be to wear minimal or no gear at all while out on a motorcycle--especially in warmer weather--it’s a bad idea. Motorcyclists are exposed to all kinds of road debris. Anything hard that falls off of a truck or blows in from open spaces ends up on our roads. Those items get kicked up by passing vehicles, often headed straight at motorcyclists. If you are wearing protective gear, the impact of a stray rock, a stinging insect or something more sinister like sliding across asphalt, is much less than it would be if not protected. And, your gear also keeps you from getting too much sun exposure by facilitating your body’s natural process of sweat evaporation to prevent heat exhaustion. In hot weather, the answer is to wear more gear, expose less of your skin to the sun and wind, and allow your body’s built-in cooling system to work its magic. It doesn’t take very long for a rider to experience heat-related illness, especially if they have not hydrated well that day.

Instead of limiting enjoyment, proper gear can actually add to your riding comfort and of course, prolong your life.

Statistics vary widely on how much protective gear actually helps riders, but the simple fact is that having protective gear on increases your odds of walking away from a crash with fewer, less-serious injuries. And, instead of being distracted by riding conditions, protective gear can aid concentration on defensive riding skills. Today’s motorcycle riding gear is state-of-the-art and made from light-weight materials designed to take the brunt of anything that comes your way. In addition to leather products, bikers can now get gear made of Kevlar, ballistic nylon or a hybrid of leather and nylon. The best riding gear comes with body armor--thick pads sewn into the elbows, shoulders, kidney area, spine, knees, and in some cases, hips.

What is considered the minimum amount of safe motorcycle gear?

Most experts would suggest a heavy jacket made from cow hide, Kevlar or ballistic nylon, riding pants or chaps made from cow hide or nylon, full-finger riding gloves, over-the-ankle leather boots, eye protection, and a DOT-certified helmet. Also important are ear plugs, sunscreen and drinking water. While these last three items are not what most people would consider standard protective gear, they are important to your safety. Some people ride their motorcycle with very little between themselves and a sea of hard, sharp, fast-moving objects. This is not recommended. Proper motorcycle safety gear is there as a buffer between you and the environment in which you ride. Without a protective steel cage, your best chance at emerging from a motorcycle accident with minimal injuries is to fully gear up every time you ride. Pick up some quality gear and ride easy knowing that you’ve improved your odds out there. Check out the Allstate Motorcycle Facebook page for more on motorcycles.

Many consider a motorcycle helmet to be the single most important piece of riding gear you’ll ever purchase, and, regardless of your state’s laws, you may want to consider wearing it every time you ride your motorcycle. A motorcycle helmet is specially designed to reduce injury in the event of a crash, but like any other piece of specialized equipment, it only works when used correctly. Surprisingly, many motorcyclists on the road are wearing incorrectly fitted helmets. Not only will an improperly sized helmet affect the comfort of your ride, but a helmet that is too large or too small may be ineffective in doing what a helmet is designed to do: save you from serious injury in the event of a crash. Only a properly sized, properly fitted and properly worn helmet will be able to perform as intended, so make sure to follow these steps when buying your next helmet.

1. Measure your head Using a cloth measuring tape, measure your head around its largest circumference, about one inch above your eyebrows and just above your ears. Take several measurements to get an average. Write down this number and take it with you when you go to try on helmets. Use this number as a starting point only as every helmet is shaped differently and not all manufacturers’ size guides match.
2. Try on the helmet Once at the retailer, select a helmet based on the size recommendation for your head measurements. If your head size falls exactly between two sizes, start with the larger of the two. Place the helmet on your head and securely tighten the strap.
3. The visual check Using a mirror, ensure that your eyes are the center of the visor opening. The edge of the forehead padding should be just above your eyebrows. Look for gaps between the cheek pads and your cheeks, the side pads and your temples, and feel the back of the helmet to make sure it’s in contact with the back of your neck.
4. Move the helmet A properly sized helmet will fit snug enough to cause your skin to move with the helmet. A helmet that is too loose may come off in the event of a crash, but a helmet that is too tight may cause increasing discomfort as it is worn. Grab the helmet with a hand on either side and attempt to rotate the helmet side to side. With your thumbs, attempt to lift the helmet straight up off of your head. If the helmet moves easily during either test, it is too large. Try to push the chin bar to your chin. The front of the helmet should not touch your nose or chin. Finally, place your thumbs at the back of the helmet and attempt to roll the helmet forward off of your head. If the helmet comes off, try one size smaller.
5. Wear the helmet Once you’ve determined the proper size of your helmet, fasten it securely and wear it around the store. Note any excessive tightness or increasing discomfort. Take this time to familiarize yourself with the features of the helmet such as the locations of the vent switches. After 30 minutes, remove your helmet and look for any red marks on your face and head that may indicate pressure points.

Once you’re satisfied with the comfort and style of your helmet, make your purchase, confident that your new, properly fitted helmet will provide you with all the protection for which it was designed.

The urge to ride can hit at any moment. But before you put on your gear, jump on your bike and hit the road, consider taking a few minutes to give your motorcycle a thorough once-over. Experts recommend making a pre-ride check part of your motorcycle ownership routine since it can be vital to ensuring your safety and the longevity of your two-wheeled investment. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation has developed an acronym, T-CLOCS, to help you remember the basic steps in conducting a pre-ride inspection. Follow these steps to conduct a thorough, efficient examination of your motorcycle before every ride.

T = Tires & Wheels

Make sure front and back tires have the correct cold air pressure. Incorrectly inflated tires wear more quickly, provide less traction and cause an increase in your bike’s fuel consumption. Tires with worn tread lead to further loss of traction and have a higher probability of failure. Also check for bulges, cuts and punctures. Ensure spokes are tight and that the rims are properly balanced and spin freely. Finally, make sure the brakes feel firm and have sufficient pad depth, and that brake lines are tight and leak free.

C = Controls

Check the pivot bolt and nut on your clutch and brake levers. Make sure their positioning is correct and they have a full range of motion. Check that all switches operate as intended. Ensure cable ends and shafts are lubed and aren’t kinked or frayed or bund when you turn the handlebar. Check all hoses for damage, and make sure the throttle is within the correct tolerance for play and closes freely and quickly when released.

L = Lights & Electrics

Check headlight, tail light and brake lights for proper illumination and that the braking and signaling controls actuate their corresponding lights. Look for condensation in the lenses and, remove any debris. Check that the bike’s battery is correctly installed and secured and that fluid is at the correct level. Inspect all wiring, looking for frays, pinching and disconnects.

O = Oil & Fluids

Check for leaking motor oil as well as brake fluid, coolant and gasoline leaks. Check all fluid levels and top off if necessary. Check the color of brake fluid and coolant.

C = Chassis

Check for smooth action of the front and rear suspension, and look for leaking fork oil. Feel for play in the steering head and swing arm bearings. Inspect body paint for peeling or lifting. Inspect the chain or belt for proper tension, wear and lubrication. Check all fasteners for security.

S = Sidestand

Check for proper spring tension and tightness, and make sure the stand retracts completely without binding. Ensure that the cut-off switch operates as intended. Be sure to perform these checks before every ride, without exception. It’s also a good idea to recheck your bike when you return to allow yourself time to correct any problems that may have arisen so you’ll be ready to go at a moment’s notice the next time you hear the road calling your name.

Whoever said the best things in life are free never owned a motorcycle. No one’s giving away free motorcycles, so if you want to own the bike of your dreams, chances are you’re going to have to pay for it. While a few of us will be able to walk into a dealership and hand over a wad of cash, most potential motorcycle buyers will be looking for some form of financing. If you’re thinking about making a two-wheeled investment, follow these tips so you - and your wallet - don’t get taken for a ride. Build your credit before you buy a bike. Most lenders consider motorcycles a luxury item, so they’ll be critical of your credit history before approving you for a loan. The easiest way to get a good deal on motorcycle financing is to have good credit. Check your credit score and correct any discrepancies before you apply for a loan. With lenders keeping a tighter grip on their purse strings, it’s harder than ever to obtain financing, especially if you’re considered a lending risk. But, the better your credit history, the better your chances of obtaining lower-interest financing – or being approved for a loan at all.

The easiest way to get a good deal on motorcycle financing is to have good credit.

Shop around for a loan before you shop around for a bike. Determining what you can realistically afford before you enter a showroom can save you time, money and embarrassment. Setting your sights on the perfect bike only to discover you can’t get financing can be a frustrating experience. So do your homework before you go, and be realistic about what you’ll be able to afford. Save up for a larger down payment – or buy the bike with cash. A larger down payment means smaller monthly payments and interest charges.  While it’s not always possible to subdue the desire for immediate motorcycle gratification while you save your cash, purchasing a bike outright will often net you a better deal and eliminates interest charges altogether. Ask questions. If you’re unsure about a financing deal’s terms, ask questions until you’re absolutely clear. Know about interest accruement and changing rates, late fees, penalties and payment options. There are many sources for motorcycle financing, but here are a few popular options. Know what’s out there and check around for the best deals.

Dealer Financing

Most motorcycle dealerships offer financing directly to consumers or they have special relationships with lenders. Dealers want to sell you a bike, so it’s in their best interest to help you obtain financing.

Manufacturer Financing

It’s possible to obtain financing for new motorcycles directly from the manufacturer; however, this option is usually only available to customers with very good credit scores, and the manufacturer’s promotions may vary throughout the year.

Credit Card

If you have low interest rates and enough purchasing power, you can pay for your bike with plastic. But be careful, as many credit card companies can change their interest rates at any time.

Personal Loan

Check with your bank to see if you qualify for a personal loan. This option can be attractive if you’re purchasing a bike from a private seller or purchasing a used motorcycle from a dealer since you won’t be limited by manufacturers’ promotions. If you currently have a mortgage or line of credit from your bank, you may be eligible for lower interest rates. Regardless of where you obtain financing for your motorcycle, make sure you’re able to afford the payments and still have enough left over for gear, maintenance, gas, food, rent and other necessities of life.

Touring by motorcycle has become increasingly popular with motorcyclists in recent years for many reasons. Whether short tours that span a few days, or multi-day / multi-state tours,– touring with other people is a great way to make new friends, see amazing sights, experience roads perfect for motorcycling, and spend quality time relaxing on your bike. There are more motorcycle touring companies operating now than ever before. As for the tour companies themselves, riders have many choices. You can find touring businesses that specialize in specific geographical areas, companies that provide loaner bikes and gear, some that operate internationally, others that create custom tours, and even some that cater solely to women riders. But how can you tell if motorcycle touring is right for you? And if you decide that you want to tour, how do you pick the best company? The following tips will help. The most important first step in deciding on a touring provider is to research your options carefully and don’t be afraid to call tour providers and ask questions. Any reputable company will welcome your inquiry and provide data on tour accommodations, food options, safety protocols, weather and riding conditions, daily itineraries, and activities. Additionally, reputable companies provide questionnaires asking detailed questions about participants’ riding experience so the tour guides can set optimal pack positions based on skill. This level of organization generally leads to smoother, more cohesive group rides and points to a proficient touring company. Other important issues to uncover when researching are what you get for the cost of the tour, the tour guides’ experience level (in actually guiding riders), and whether the company conducts safety briefings. These are all indicators of a company’s focus, health, and maturity, regardless of how long they’ve been in business.

You can find touring businesses that specialize in specific geographical areas, companies that provide loaner bikes and gear, some that operate internationally, others that create custom tours, and even some that cater solely to women riders.

Tour costs vary depending on the provider, accommodations, amenities, and activities, among other considerations. In general, international tours cost more than domestic because participants have to pay for their travel to and from the country, among other expenses. In general with “full-service” guided tours, where the operator handles the details for you (accommodations, food, and activities), you can expect to pay from $400 - $800 per day, per bike (or per person), depending on the particulars. You’ll want to find out exactly what you get for your money, as most touring companies don’t provide gasoline for your bike, even if you’re using one of their bikes. Additionally, most tour operators don’t include the cost of alcohol or other extras. Some even have restrictions on the number of meals included with the tour. The key here is to research as meticulously as possible. Having all the facts beforehand will reduce uncomfortable surprises and make for a better experience. As far as your riding preferences, consider whether you like multiple hours in the saddle with few stops or prefer less time in the saddle with routine stops for photo opportunities, rest, shopping, dining, etc. Your touring company should provide details on what to expect before you book. Find out the riding conditions you’ll be in as well. For example, will the group be on paved roads, some gravel, all interstate or highway riding, or a mix of highway and back roads? Again, the company should be able to tell you this upfront and be very familiar with the local roads and conditions. Taking a guided motorcycle tour is a great way to experience the joy of motorcycling in a new way, and riders have more choices in touring than ever before. The best way to find out if a particular touring company and their offerings are right for you is to spend the time to research the tour company comprehensively. An excellent tour operator will make your decision easier by providing quality, informative documentation and excellent customer service before you even book your tour.