So you’re ready to purchase that new boat, but you’re not quite sure what you need? Here are a few things to consider that can help make that decision a little easier.

1. What is your budget?

Before you even step on the lot to look at a boat, you need to have a budget in mind. Buying a boat can be easy, and starting with a number in mind will help keep this process smooth and enjoyable. Once you have this taken care of, it’s time to find the boat that best fits your needs.

2. What kind of boat have you owned before, or currently?

If you have owned a boat before, you can use that experience to help you determine the type of new boat that will fit your needs. What about your previous boat you would change? What would you want to stay the same?

3. What do you want to do with your boat? Fish? Ski? Tube?

It might surprise the first-time boat buyer, but not all boats are created for the same purpose. Knowing what you want to do with your boat is always one of the first steps in your buying experience. It will quickly help you narrow your search.

4. Yes, but what do you see yourself doing with this boat 90% of the time?

Too many times, boat buyers get caught up in all of the things that they may do with their boat, and they end up choosing something that doesn’t fit their primary need. If the main purpose of the boat is fishing, with the occasional skier in tow, you are looking for a sport boat, similar to the Nitro Z-7 Sport. This type of boat combines the features of a fishing boat (trolling motor and fishing decks) with the tow pylon and swivel seats that water sport enthusiasts enjoy. If your boat is being used for the exact opposite, you are likely looking for a ski and fish boat like the Tahoe Q7 SF. Ski and fish boats are built primarily for water sports, but have a low-enough profile and large-enough deck space to please the casual angler.

5. What is the monthly or yearly insurance going to cost for the new boat?

This is something that most new boat buyers overlook. While most boat insurance is relatively inexpensive when you compare it to other types of insurance, it’s something that you will still want to consider. Most boaters only keep insurance for the required time period, but we recommend having it for the life of your boat. The number of boaters continues to rise, and with more boats on the water, it's even more important to make sure your vessel is protected. Having insurance not only protects your purchase, it also protects you and your passengers—and taking a boating safety course might even earn you a discount. Answering these five questions when you’re buying your next boat will go a long way to making the process go much smoother, and helping you find the perfect boat!

Unlike our roads, our waterways have no painted lines or stoplights to guide us in traffic. So how do we avoid colliding with other boats—especially when they can come from so many different directions? Well, just like our asphalt highways, there are rules that govern the conduct of boats meeting. Professional mariners must demonstrate their knowledge and understanding of the rules of the nautical road by passing written exams. Most amateur boaters aren’t required to take even the equivalent of Driver’s Ed before they take the helm, but if you don’t learn the basics, you’re taking unnecessary risks. Rather than hope that the high-speed craft bearing down on your boat has a pro at the helm or is operated by a clairvoyant, it makes sense to drive defensively to avoid collisions. Here are six general rules and concepts that will help you stay out of harm’s way:

• Always keep a lookout.
• Travel at a safe speed.
• When overtaking or passing, the boat being passed has the right-of-way. Keep clear of it.
• When meeting head-on, keep to the right.
• When crossing paths, the boat on the right has the right of way. Slow down or change course and permit it to pass.
• Always use your running lights at night and in times of restricted visibility.

Another key practice to learn is, when you’ve decided you will change course to keep clear, make an early and large course change so your intentions are clear to the other boat captain. Avoid small, incremental or last-minute changes because it may be difficult for the opposing boat to react quickly. Certain types of boats, like sailboats, generally have the right-of-way over other power boats. This has more to do with their capability to “keep clear” and avoid a collision. We say generally have the right of way, because there are exceptions. Vessels engaged in activities that limit their ability to maneuver have the right-of-way over other vessels. For example, a sailboat has rights over a powerboat, or a large tanker navigating a narrow channel has rights over all small vessels. Even when two powerboats meet, one boat technically has the right-of-way (often referred to as the stand-on vessel) while the other boat is “burdened” to give the right-of-way (often referred to as the “give-way” vessel), assuming that the vessels are within sight of each other. Another rule to keep in mind is the “tonnage rule.” This is not an actual rule, but generally when the other boat is MUCH larger than yours and could crush you—the prudent move is to stay out of the way!

Signal with your horn

Using horn signals is another easy way to notify other boats of your intent to pass them. Here are some of the most common signals and what they signify: One short blast: “I intend to leave you on my port side.” Two short blasts: “I intend to leave you on my starboard side.” Three short blasts: “I am operating astern propulsion.” Five or more short blasts: Danger signal. One prolonged blast is a warning signal given when approaching a blind spot such as a curve in a channel, or when coming out of a slip where your vessel may be obstructed from view.

Make radio contact

If the horn signals don’t seem to work, use your boat’s VHF radio. Hail on channel 16 or 13 to make contact and then switch to a working channel. Give your position in relation to some nearby landmark, not latitude and longitude, as no one has time to plot your position. For example, “This is the blue powerboat exiting the Hog Island Channel at Cleveland Ledge light calling the east-bound tug and tow on my port bow…” Commercial vessels will typically give “security” calls at certain points along their route; simply monitoring the radio will give you an idea of what is going on around you.

Passing in the night

At night, boats have red (port or left side) and green (starboard or right side) sidelights for a reason—so you can determine how you are approaching another boat. One good way to think of this is like traffic lights, if you can see another boat’s red side light, stop or give way. If it’s green, you can keep going. If you are overtaking a boat from astern and can see its white stern light, stay out of the way, regardless of the type of boat. Remember your boat’s “danger zone.” From dead ahead to just behind your starboard beam—yield to boats in this zone.

Avoiding collisions

How do you know if a collision could be coming? When an approaching vessel gets closer but doesn’t change in bearing, you are on a collision course. A steady bearing is easy to see if there’s land in the background; the other boat is holding the exact same position against the land behind it. Always be courteous and if you do change course to avoid another boat, make the change early and large enough to show the other boat your intentions.

If you have a zippy little sports car, you know that it can accelerate, stop, and maneuver better than a big truck. Towing a boat on a trailer will change the way any vehicle handles to a more truck-like response—even if you are hauling it behind a Maserati.  Regardless of your tow vehicle, here are some tips for towing a boat to keep you safe.

1. When loading the boat on your trailer, distribute weight evenly from side to side and lengthwise. This may require redistributing equipment, fuel, and water onboard the boat to achieve the right balance.
2. Both the tow vehicle and trailer should be nearly parallel to the ground. Check the tongue weight to make sure you are not overloading the hitch; it should weigh about ten percent of the all-up trailer weight. (For example, if the boat and trailer weigh 5,000 pounds, there should be 500 pounds of tongue weight.)
3. Always secure the boat to the trailer with ratchet straps and ensure the trailer winch strap is attached to the bow eye.
4. A towed boat adds weight to the overall vehicle, so allow more time for stopping. Avoid sudden turns, starts, or stops that can affect trailer stability. Engage low gear when driving downhill.
5. Make sure your trailer lights are working, and use them even in daylight.
6. Before you start out, always perform a walk-around inspection of the trailer. A prudent rule of thumb is to check it again after 1, 10, and 100 miles of driving, in case a strap has come loose.
7. Carry a spare tire that fits your trailer, a grease gun, a lug wrench that fits the tires, and a tire gauge.

By following these simple guidelines you should find that towing your boat is uneventful and gets you where you’re going safely.

Boats with either gasoline or diesel engines can suffer poor performance and damage if their fuel is contaminated. If you look out and there’s black smoke pouring out of the exhaust, that’s a pretty good indication that something’s gone awry! You may also experience excessive smoke, lack of power, hesitation in acceleration, or outright stalling. No one wants to be stranded, so let’s look at what you should know about your boat’s fuel, how it gets contaminated and how best to prevent contamination.

Water is the most common contaminant found in both gas and diesel fuel.

Water is the most common contaminant found in both gas and diesel fuel. Water in gas, particularly ethanol-boosted gas that attracts water, is quite common in pleasure boats that go unused for prolonged periods. Air in less-than-full fuel tanks contains moisture. Over time this moisture condenses in the tank and is one reason why, regardless of fuel type, tanks should be topped off during storage periods, leaving less room for condensation. Water can also intrude storage tanks through poorly sealed fuel caps and vents during boat fueling. Less likely, but not unknown, is the fact that water can be introduced into your fuel directly from a supplier. Occasionally, adding a simple “dry gas” additive  when fueling your boat during the season is a good idea. Whatever the source, it is estimated that in diesel engines, 90 percent of all problems are fuel-related. Fuel system inspection should be top-of-mind with boaters. Find the Problem If your boat experiences any of the symptoms of contaminated fuel listed above, you should start by examining your boat’s fuel filters. Small outboards with external tanks will have an inline filter; larger boats with internal tanks may have more elaborate filters between the engine and tank, such as a Racor water separator.  Sometimes, simply cleaning and replacing filters will eliminate the small amount of water or contaminant present in your fuel system, but a clogged filter should lead you to a more thorough visual inspection of the inside of tanks if possible--look for evidence of rust, corrosion or sediment.

The only real cures for fuel contamination are to completely replace the fuel or hire a company to do fuel polishing (filtration) along with a thorough tank cleaning.

Water or debris in the fuel can also lead to deeper problems, namely damaged fuel tanks and blown engines. Microbes that feed on hydrocarbons cause sludge, but can only flourish if water is present. These same algae emit sulphuric acid as a waste product which further corrodes metal tanks, pumps, and injectors. Water vaporizing in an engine’s cylinders can cause permanent damage—which is why we have all these filters to begin with. The only real cures for fuel contamination are to completely replace the fuel or hire a company to do fuel polishing (filtration) along with a thorough tank cleaning. The presence of algae, discoloration, or sediment should prompt any boat owner to act quickly. Simply adding products like Biobor to fight algae in an already fouled system will only bring the problem past the filters and into the engine.  Biobor and similar products should be used as preventatives to algae growth, not cures. Near the end of the boating season, it’s recommended to:

• Add a fuel stabilizer, specific to your fuel type, and run your engine long enough to draw the enhanced fuel into the engine—this will keep the fuel from breaking down over time and gumming up your carburetor or fuel injectors.
• Inspect your fuel filters annually—lay-up time is a good time for this. Again, if you have water or contaminants in your filters check for further problems. A water indicating paste can be used to “stick” your tanks if visual access is limited.
• Top your tanks off with fuel. This will minimize air and condensation from getting in your fuel.

Clean, fresh fuel will maximize engine performance and give you peace of mind to enjoy boating.

Nearly 7 million Americans own a boat with a trailer. You’ve probably seen some of those very boaters pulled over on the side of the road with trailer problems--wheels off, axles broken, people in a state of frustration and panic as their boat balances on a broken-down trailer. Truth be told, not enough of us pay the proper attention to the condition of our boat trailers. Following are a few simple tips on boat trailer maintenance which can reduce the possibility of that broken down trailer being yours.

The Top Five Reasons for Trailer Breakdowns*:

44% - Flat Tires 20% - Wheel Bearing Failures 14% - Axle Problems 9% - Suspension Problems 5% - Tongue/Coupling Trouble

Tires

Trailer or ST tires are different from car tires—they’re usually of a bias ply design, which provides higher load capacity and stiffer sidewalls whereas the radial tires found on most passenger cars are more flexible. Under inflation is the prime cause of trailer tire problems. An underinflated trailer tire won't sag like your car's tires because of its stiff sidewall construction. Tires may look normal, but you can't eyeball them accurately; check your tire pressure with a tire gauge. Oxidation is often the next culprit for trailer tire failure. Trailer tires need to be replaced every 3–5 years of use, even if they appear to have plenty of tread left. Trailer tires often sit in one spot for weeks, if not months, and usually in sunlight where UV radiation will decay the tire. Is it any wonder that the deteriorated sidewalls blow out under pressure? Check for dry rot and crazing on the sidewalls.

Trailer tires need to be replaced every 3–5 years of use, even if they appear to have plenty of tread left.

Wheel Bearing Maintenence

Boat trailer wheel bearing maintenance is crucial as they are regularly immersed in water--often corrosive salt water. Even fresh water will cause the wheel bearings to rust if not properly packed with lubricant.  Very few owners check the lubrication of the hubs and bearings as often as they should (like before every road trip). Even if they do, they don’t always use the right lubricant. Fill the hubs completely with a multipurpose No. 2 grade lubricant. One solution that will keep the wheel bearings fully lubricated is a spring-loaded hub, such as Bearing Buddies, that constantly forces fresh lubricant into the wheel bearing. Some models of Bearing Buddies even have a visual exterior reference to show you at a glance if there is enough lubricant in the hub to protect the bearings. Even trailers not immersed in water are subject to bearing corrosion. Condensation from cooler air will be sucked into hot hubs if they are not completely filled with lubricant, causing rust and pitting. The only solution is to be vigilant about lubricating your wheel bearings.

Axle, suspension, and tongue/coupling problems

Even if your trailer has passed a visual inspection for rust and corrosion, it is still possible to have axle, suspension, or coupling problems if it is overloaded or safe towing techniques are not followed.

* according to a recent BoatUS survey