The Allstate Blog » Auto Safety

Road Sign Colors and Shapes

Melissa — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:00:11 +0000

If you read our recent post on the history of road signs, you may recall that the first stop sign appeared in Detroit in 1915 -- but it didn’t really look anything like it does today. The New York Times reports that the first stop sign was a 2-foot square metal sheet that had black letters on a white background. The stop sign -- and many of the other signs created to help guide motorists and provide important information -- evolved over the decades into the recognizable shapes we're accustomed to today.

The Shape of Things

In 1923, the shapes of signs started to evolve. The New York Times reports that after that first, square stop sign, other signs with more sides were designed to indicate a higher level of danger. A circular sign denoted the most risk, thanks to what can be seen as its infinite number of sides. As a result, circular signs were recommended for railroad crossings. The stop sign adopted an octagonal shape, which signaled the second-highest level of danger. Diamond-shaped signs were designed to provide warnings, while rectangular signs were intended to provide information. Setting standardized shapes for certain signs made sense since lighting wasn’t always ideal at that time. The thought was that it would be easier for drivers to react to known shapes, even if they couldn’t read the signs at night.

The Black-and-White Era

Not unlike the first TV sets, this first crop of road signs didn’t offer much in the way of color. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, most early signs were white with black letters, and manufacturing limitations meant that no road sign could be bigger than a 2-foot square.

The Dawn of Color

Color is an important part of road signs today; many drivers know what a sign means simply by those factors alone. Some of those sign colors go all the way back to 1924, when officials began discussing which color combinations to use on various types of signs. One of the color combinations discussed at that point was the stop sign's now-familiar white lettering on a red background -- but those colors weren't adopted immediately. At the time, a report indicated that it was easier to see a yellow sign than a red sign at night, so when the first manuals standardizing road sign colors were introduced in the late 1920s, the stop signs were yellow. The New York Times reports that the color red has always signified the need to stop, and while red stop signs were considered early on, producing a durable, red reflective material wasn’t possible until the late 1940s or early 1950s. The nationwide change from yellow to red stop signs didn't come until a few years later in 1954, when the DOT’s manual called for a red sign with white letters.

Road Signs Today

Now, stop signs have been red for so long that many people don't remember it any other way. The colors of other types of road signs can also give an indication of their meaning. Here’s a rundown of some of the more common colors and some examples of signs you might see out on the road: [slideshow] So, now you know a little more about the shapes and colors of signs -- from the plain black-and-white square signs of the 1920s to the iconic colors and shapes of today.

Do You Know What to Do After a Car Accident? [INFOGRAPHIC]

Melissa — Tue, 14 May 2013 11:00:54 +0000

You're driving in bumper-to-bumper, stop-and-go traffic during rush hour on a Tuesday evening. Just as you glimpse your long-awaited exit, the car in front of you slams on the brakes. You stop just in time -- but then the car behind you slams into your back bumper. Oh no! You've been in an accident! Would you know what to do if this happened to you? There are a lot of things to consider after a wreck on the road, and knowing what steps to take can help ease the stress of an already nerve-wracking situation. Check out the infographic below for some helpful information: Looking for more information about car accidents and insurance? Check out the Tools and Resources section of Allstate.com.

A Few Handy Tips About Car Accessories

Melissa — Thu, 09 May 2013 11:00:52 +0000

Adding special features to your car can be appealing for many reasons. Whether you want to install a cool new spoiler to take your car from "ho-hum" to "wow," or if you want to install a rear-view camera, there are pluses and minuses to installing aftermarket parts. Here are some things to think about when considering new car accessories: [slideshow] Call Your Agent Some adjustments you make to your car -- including installing aftermarket parts -- may have insurance implications. If you have questions about what's covered, contact your Allstate agent for more information.

5 Steps to Transporting Your Car During a Move

MovingInsider — Thu, 04 Apr 2013 11:05:26 +0000

You are moving cross-country, and all of your household belongings are loaded up in a moving van. So, how exactly are you going to transport your car to your new home at the same time? Towing your vehicle can be a great option that allows you and your family to ride in the moving van together. It can also combat driver fatigue because you can share the responsibility of driving a single vehicle, which may also help you save gas. Here is some helpful advice for choosing the right towing equipment, some tips for loading and unloading, plus special precautions to take while transporting your car.

Step 1: Determine which type of trailer you need.

There are two types of trailers commonly used to tow a vehicle: a tow dolly or car carrier. A tow dolly lifts your car's front wheels off the road (a low-cost option for front-wheel drive vehicles), while a car carrier lifts your car completely off the ground so that none of the tires make contact with the pavement (good for long-distance moves). The weight, size of the hitch and other specifications of both the tow vehicle and the car to be towed are important in determining which trailer you will need. Consult the trailer manufacturer for specific guidelines to decide which will work best for you. Some companies, like U-Haul, provide a hookup validation process that will qualify your vehicle quickly and easily. Remember, rental towing equipment is designed to carry most regular-production vehicles, so if you have after-market alterations (e.g. over-sized tires) or custom effects (e.g. lowered ground clearance), then you may need to take some extra steps before the towing equipment can accommodate your special vehicle.

Step 2: Familiarize yourself with the equipment.

It’s never a good idea to throw your car on a trailer and learn as you go. Take time to learn the proper way to use your equipment and become familiar with the components. Read all of the decals, the owner’s manual and pamphlets, when available. You may also find instructional videos on the trailer manufacturer’s website, or on YouTube.

Step 3: Load your vehicle.

Position the moving van, the trailer, and the vehicle to be towed in a straight line on level ground. Make sure the towing equipment is securely connected to your moving van before driving the to-be-towed car up the ramps. (Don't load your vehicle until the trailer is hooked up). Follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions when loading your vehicle. Some basic and general tips for loading are as follows: The Do's:

Double-check your connection to the moving van before loading the trailer.
Load forward. The heaviest part of the car (where the engine is) should always be loaded closest to the towing vehicle, whether you are using a car carrier or tow dolly.
Use adequate tie-downs, safety chains and tire straps to secure your vehicle.
Be careful getting out of your car after you load it onto the trailer. The trailer fenders may make it impossible to open your door wide enough to get out. You may need to climb out of the window, or consider renting a trailer with fold-down fenders if this is not an option.
When towing a rear-wheel drive, all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive vehicle on a tow dolly, drop the drive shaft before towing. Putting the vehicle into neutral is not enough in many cases. Consult a trusted mechanic for questions or assistance. An easier solution for these vehicles may be a car carrier.

The Don'ts

Never load cargo into the vehicle being towed. The weight capacities of trailers are based on empty vehicle weights; yours may not be equipped for the extra weight of your cargo. Cargo in a towed vehicle will also shift the normal weight distribution, which can cause dangerous "sway."
Don’t put pets or people into the vehicle being towed.

Step 4: Drive carefully when towing.

Driving a vehicle combination is different from driving a vehicle alone. You should always take the following precautions when towing a trailer: Before you go:

Make sure your lights are operational. When using a tow dolly, you will need to attach separate vehicle-in-tow lights. Inspect all trailer connections once more before hitting the road.
Check tire pressure on your car and the tow vehicle before you set out.

On the Road:

Anticipate stops, and brake early. The heavier weight of the combination creates a need for longer stopping distances. In clear weather, allow a four-second gap between you and the vehicle in front of you. Allow at least five seconds when towing in adverse weather conditions.
Reduce your regular driving speed, and slow down even more for downgrades, curves, hazardous road conditions and expressway exits.
Take wider turns.
Always be alert and follow common sense driving behaviors. Fasten your seat belt, do not talk on your cellphone, and never operate a vehicle when you are tired.

At every stop:

Park with a pull-through, where the parking spot in front is clear; backing up can be difficult and could result in damage to towing equipment.
Inspect all trailer connections before driving, including the hitch.

Step 5: Unload the vehicle.

Before you unload your car from the trailer, make sure that the trailer is still securely attached to the vehicle. Position the vehicle so that the trailer is directly behind it in a straight line, and is on safe, level ground. Fully extend the loading ramps and then ensure the area around the trailer is clear before removing your vehicle. While it is not necessary, it is helpful to have a spotter available to guide you off of the trailer. This post comes from the editors at Movinginsider.com; your resource for everything related to moving, storage and organization. Recommended by the editors:

From Rome to Detroit: A History of Street Signs

Melissa — Tue, 02 Apr 2013 11:00:10 +0000

Cruising down the highway, the open road is decorated with green interstate signs, orange construction signs and even electronic signs that tell you what's ahead. Signs are such a common part of the American roadway infrastructure that we may take them for granted. But, have you ever thought about where road signs came from? To answer that question, we must go back to ancient Rome--and its milestones. When you think of a "milestone," you may think about a personal achievement or a rite of passage - major events that mark an important place in your life's journey. But this term originally had a much more literal meaning: The ancient Romans used tall columns called "milestones" to relay information to travelers on its roads. They indicated how far away Rome was, and gave travelers directional information, and were some of the earliest road signs in the Western world. Signage stayed simple for centuries, until the advent of the automobile created a more urgent need for a clear, organized system. In Europe, the Italian Touring Club began lobbying for better road signs in 1895. Across the pond, U.S. street signage remained basic until the turn of the 20th century, when the current system began to take shape. At the time, it was not uncommon to come across roadway signs that were broken or unreadable; in many instances, the necessary signs simply didn’t exist. That began to change in 1899 when, according to the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT), a group of car owners met at the Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York City to form a car club. One of their priorities was to post and maintain signs on key roadways, which would guide motorists to specific destinations. In the years to come, organizations in other areas of the country followed suit. In 1905, the Buffalo Automobile Club put up a network of signs in New York, and in 1909, the Automobile Club of California installed signs on major roadways within a 250-mile radius of San Francisco. The DOT says interest in establishing road signs grew as other clubs formed, and in the early 20^th century, 40 to 50 percent of heavily trafficked roads in some areas could have as many as 11 competing signs pointing travelers in the same direction. As time went on, efforts were made to standardize the colors and shapes of the signs that were popping up along our nation’s roadways. Cleveland became home to the first electric traffic signal in 1914, and the first stop sign was posted in Detroit in 1915, according the DOT. Wisconsin was the first state to put up official route signs in 1918, and in 1920, Detroit got the first three-color traffic signal. Just as our cars and roadways have evolved over time, the DOT says road signs continued to evolve in order to “accommodate increased traffic, higher speeds, more commercial traffic, and roads that serve travelers 24 hours a day in all types of weather.” Now, in the days of electronic billboards and highway signs that give up-to-the-minute travel times, it's clear that street signs have come a long way since the milestones of Rome.

Don’t Get Stuck in the Muck: Follow These 6 Critical Off-Road Driving Tips

Doug Howlett — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 11:00:53 +0000

You might be a dedicated “mudder” who operates a big-tired, four-wheel-drive truck and looks for the biggest mud holes you can find, or a weekend warrior who must occasionally navigate a soft, rutted dirt road following a soaking of rain. Either way, all drivers who venture off the asphalt must know how to tackle the muck and avoid getting stuck. Most basic soft-ground situations are navigated easily—even in a two-wheel-drive vehicle—by simply keeping forward momentum going with a little gas and working the wheel back and forth when necessary for additional traction. But to deal with deeper or softer-than-usual mud or sand or deep-rutted muck, remember the following advice: 1. Slow and Steady – When approaching a stretch of visibly muddy road or ground, maintain a slow but steady speed. Land Rover offers this advice to drivers: “Drive as slowly as possible and as fast as necessary.” Never speed through mud, as the slippery surface can make it easy to lose control and hit a tree or other nearby obstacle. 2. Maintain Control – Keep the wheels straight as you enter the muck and for as long as your momentum continues. Racking the wheel back and forth can be useful when you start to bog down, as it helps the tread on the edge of your tires grab. However, as long as you are moving forward at a steady speed, turning the wheels will only slow momentum and increase your odds of getting stuck. 3. Lock It In – If you have four-wheel drive, lock it in before entering the mud. If you wait until you need it, it may be too late. More tires turning with power through soil will improve your chances of making it through and will also reduce tire spin, which merely digs deep ruts in the road. 4. Walk It First – In the case of deep mud or water holes, get out and walk the ground before driving through it, poking the bottom with a stick to make sure it isn’t too deep for your vehicle. 5. Avoid Ruts – It’s better to blaze your own path in a deep mud situation, as ruts caused by other drivers can reduce steering ability and can be next to impossible to pull out of. They also tend to hold the softest, wettest portion of mud and reduce the amount of clearance between the ground and bottom of the vehicle, increasing the likelihood of getting seriously stuck. 6. Let Some Air Out – If necessary in mud and almost always when driving on sand, reduce the amount of air pressure in tires to allow more tread to make contact with driving surface. Offroaders.com suggests that for “most four-wheeling purposes, a tire pressure of 18 to 20 (pounds per square inch) will be adequate.” Sometimes the best way to avoid getting stuck is knowing when to simply turn around and go another way. Remember to always drive within your abilities, and whenever possible, only tackle mud, sand or other non-pavement driving situations in the company of someone in another vehicle—just in case you need them to pull you out.

Beyond Texting: Avoid All Distractions While Driving [INFOGRAPHIC]

Brendan — Mon, 04 Mar 2013 12:00:47 +0000

Driving distracted--even for a moment--can lead to a catastrophe. While texting is one thing that can take your eyes off the road, it's not the only way drivers can become sidetracked. Eating, interacting with passengers, adjusting the radio and of course, engaging in multimedia interactions can all contribute to a less-than-focused driver...and that can be a very dangerous situation. Consider taking the proper steps to reduce or eliminate these situations, and avoid common driving distractions. [infographic]

Winter Driving Hazards (That Aren’t Ice and Snow)

Jody DeVere, AskPatty.com — Thu, 21 Feb 2013 12:00:03 +0000

The weather outside is frightful -- or so the song goes -- and we don't need to tell you to be careful out there. Rain, snow and ice are road hazards we're all familiar with, but they're not the only insidious forces at work as you brave the winter roads! There are winter driving dangers that aren't so obvious. The following tips may help you spot and avoid these dangers. Visibility I'm not talking about being able to see through blinding snowfall if you're driving during a nor'easter (try not to do that, though). I'm talking about your ability to see the road, and other drivers' ability to see you, on a cold, clear evening. First, do yourself (and other drivers) a favor, and take the time to de-ice all of your windows and mirrors. Next, when is the last time you changed your headlights? Headlights don't only need replacement with they burn out – they tend to dim over time and can impair your ability to see the road, which can be a problem in any season but a critical flaw during winter. Finally, once you've got a good, bright set of headlights, use them! I don't mean only at night, but also in twilight and anytime the weather is misty, gray or snowy. You want to make sure other drivers can see you through the gray haze that sometimes accompanies cold weather. Battery Failure How old is the battery in your car? If the answer is more than three years, you may want to think about replacing it. Cold weather can impair an aging battery's ability to start your car, especially when temperatures dip below freezing. If you're not buying a new battery, consider giving your current battery a once-over to see how it looks. Check the lead connections for corrosion and clean them as needed with a wire brush. You may consider investing in a portable power source, which can deliver the juice needed to jump-start your car should you get stranded – and, at the very least, never leave home without a set of jumper cables. Tire Pressure Tire pressure should be checked monthly, but this is doubly true in colder weather. Cool temperature changes air pressure, and tires with plenty of air in the summer will show less pressure in winter simply due to the change in atmospheric pressure. When inflating your tires, use the pressure indicated in your manual, or on the label inside the driver's side door. Never use pressures indicated on the tire sidewall. Salt With winter comes road treatment, which usually means rock salt or a salty brine sprayed on roads. While this is very effective at keeping the roads safe from ice, salt is also quite corrosive and can damage your car's finish if left for too long. Regular visits to the car wash are highly recommended to keep this stuff from doing too much damage. And don't neglect the undercarriage: A lot of road muck ends up on the undercarriage, which is easy to overlook, so do your best to clean under there, too. Remember, once rust takes hold, it's like a cancer eating at your vehicle's body, frame and critical parts. Keep the corrosive beast at bay with diligent cleaning. The Cold It goes without saying that where there is snow and ice, there are freezing temperatures. And the cold isn't just a danger to your car, it's a danger to you. It's an unpleasant thought, but should you become stranded in your vehicle, a couple of blankets and a car emergency kit stowed in your trunk could make all the difference. (A standard car emergency kit will probably include an emergency blanket, but some nice, downy comforters will work too.) If you're heading out on the road, practice good winter driving safety: Make sure others know your travel plans and route, travel with some canned food and bottled water with you in the car cabin, and remember that while they're very handy, sometimes gadgets like cellphones and GPS fail, so try to pack a good old-fashioned road map – just in case. We hope these tips keep you warm and safe on the roads this winter. Drive safely out there! Jody DeVere is the CEO of AskPatty.com, Inc., a website, blog and marketing agency providing automotive education to female consumers.

Super Vehicle Emergency Car Kit: How to Equip Yourself for Most Any Calamity

Lisa Bedford, The Survival Mom — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 12:02:16 +0000

No one enjoys being stranded on the side of the road, but when you have a well-equipped emergency car kit packed away in the trunk, the situation can be more bearable. This emergency car kit checklist covers the basics, but also has suggestions for items you may have overlooked. Consider packing these supplies for a super vehicle emergency car kit you can bring along on a spring or summer road trip, or just your next long-distance excursion with the kids:

Sanitation

Toilet paper. Keep a 4-pack handy; remove the cardboard tubes and flatten.
Hand sanitizer. Store in a quart-size zip-top bag to avoid leakage.
Toothbrush, toothpaste and dental floss. Travel sizes make these easier to pack. Pack a set for each member in a zip-top bag labeled with each person’s name.
Plastic tablecloth. This can cover questionable surfaces when you’re ready for a meal or a diaper change.
Trash bags. These are good for lining an emergency potty, which could be a 5-gallon bucket or a toddler potty.
Baby wipes.
Bar of soap. Store in a zip-top bag or soap box.
Disinfecting wipes.
Feminine protection.
Small box of tissues.
Zip-top bags in different sizes. These come in handy for holding dirty laundry, dirty diapers or trash, and can even be used to hold water.

Sustenance

Energy bars. Choose high-calorie options; they're lightweight but provide the calories you'll need in a small dose.
Almonds.
V-8 juice.
Sport drink, premade or a mix.
Peanut or other nut butters in foil packets.
Jerky.
Dried fruit.
Applesauce/fruit cups.
Hearty, whole wheat crackers.
Hard candies.
Tuna packs.
Dry cereal.
Jam/jelly cups.
Trail mix. Make sure there’s no chocolate (which would melt in high temperatures).
Shelled sunflower seeds.

Survival

Water. A case of water bottles or cleaned 2-liter soda bottles, refilled with tap water, and tightly capped. These bottles can be reused.
Water filter. I like the Life-Straw or PurifiCup, which are both lightweight and highly portable.
LED flashlights and/or headlamps.
Rain ponchos.
Emergency radio. Choose a model that is both solar- and battery-powered.
Heavy-duty trash bags.
Reflective emergency blanket/sleeping bag.
Duct tape. (There’s always a use for duct tape.)
Fleece blankets. I roll these up and store them under the back seat for easiest access. They can be used as a window shade, ground cover, changing pad and in so many other ways.
Tarp.
Paracord. 50 yards, or more. Paracord is a lightweight nylon, general purpose utility rope.
Multi-purpose knife.
Extra batteries. For everything in your kit that requires a battery.
Hand/foot warmers.
Work gloves.
Small shovel.
Fire-starters, such as waterproof matches, flint or a Blast Match, which shoots sparks with three times the heat of a standard match.
Multi-tool.
Binoculars.
Light sticks. These are great to keep the kids entertained but also helpful for keeping track of them after dark.
Maps.
High quality first-aid kit.
Bandannas.
Small pair of scissors.
Collapsible nylon bag or small backpack. If you ever have to leave your vehicle for safer ground, this will enable you to take the most essential items with you.
Shoelaces.
Walking shoes for each member of the family. You’ll give thanks for having sturdy, comfortable shoes stashed in the car if you ever have to hoof it to safety.
Floppy cotton hat.
Sunblock.
Medications. Make sure you only pack those that aren’t temperature-sensitive.
Face mask. Even a simple dust mask comes in handy around a forest fire or high level of smog.
Bug repellent.
Moleskin.
Survival and first aid manuals.

Security

Whistle.
Cash, coins. Power outages also take out ATM machines. Having cash for gas, a restaurant meal or hotel room might put you ahead of those who only have a debit or credit card.
Disposable camera. This could be very helpful in documenting a car accident, license plates, injuries or storm damage.
Pepper spray. This is good bear spray if your travels take you through bear country.
Emergency phone numbers on a laminated card.

Sanity

Deck of cards.
Foam ear plugs.
Books on CD, paperbacks.
Inspirational or motivational book.
Small journal/pen or pencil.
Lip balm.
Battery-powered fan.

I keep my emergency kit packed in an opaque, under-the-bed bin that fits perfectly in the back of my SUV. To help with organization and keep track of inventory, I keep a laminated copy of this checklist on top of everything. Once your list is laminated, use a china marker to keep track of what you have packed in the kit. Lisa Bedford, author of “Survival Mom: How to Prepare Your Family for Everyday Disasters and Worst Case Scenarios," also blogs at www.thesurvivalmom.com. She believes there is power and peace in being prepared. Recommended by the editors:

4 Ways to Pull a Truck from the Mud

Doug Howlett — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 12:00:10 +0000

Sometimes, you just can't avoid driving through mud. Whether you're parking in an unpaved lot at a concert venue or pulling off the pavement to go camping, odds are that at some point, you're going to have to navigate some mud and muck. Drive through enough of it, and you’re probably going to get stuck. With tires spinning, mud flying and forward progress halted, what is a driver to do?

Rock It Out

As soon as the truck bogs down to a complete stop, the first thing you should do is put it in reverse, keep your wheels straight and gradually accelerate in an effort to get back where you started from—on solid ground. If the truck has four-wheel drive and you haven’t already locked it in, definitely do so now. If the truck bogs down after going only a short distance in reverse, shift into low gear and power forward as far as you can. If the tires spin, turn the tires side to side in an effort to get the edge of the treads to grip the surface. Increase acceleration gradually, giving it more and more gas as long as you are moving forward. Repeat the back-and-forward process as long as you continue to make progress. Passengers should get out of the vehicle and help push if necessary. This will also reduce the weight of the truck.

Add Traction

Place dry, solid objects beneath the edge of the tire in the direction you want to go (forward or reverse). Some drivers have successfully used floor mats (though, they’ll probably be toast afterwards), but rocks, limbs and boards all make better options. You can also reduce the amount of air pressure in your tires to gain more contact between the ground and the tires’ tread. Offroader.com recommends dropping the pressure to between 18 and 20 pounds per square inch. If the truck is resting on the undercarriage, use the vehicle’s jack to lift the tires off the ground. (Make sure the jack is on a solid surface and never crawl under the vehicle while it’s jacked up.) Once lifted even a few inches, you can slide sticks, boards or other solid items beneath the tires to provide lift and traction.

Winch It Out

If you plan to drive through mud on a regular basis, it is probably wise to outfit your truck with some sort of winch. Even if you don’t have a winch, a come-along or a Hi-Lift jack can be used to pull the vehicle free provided there is a tree or other solid object close enough to attach a recovery strap around. Simply loop the winch cable or recovery strap around the tree and use the power winch, come-along or jack to slowly pull it out of the rut. For safety, place a blanket over the center point of steel winch cables. In the event the cable snaps, the weight of the blanket should keep the cable from whipping into the air, possibly injuring you or damaging the truck.

Pull It Out

Oftentimes, the best and quickest way to get your truck unstuck is to have another truck simply pull you out. Using a webbed recovery strap, attach the strap to both trucks’ tow hitches, frame-mounted tow hooks or the frame itself, as long as you can get to them without putting tension on other, less solid parts of the vehicles. Never attach a strap to a bumper, axles, parts of the suspension or the hitch ball, as these parts can get easily damaged. Once attached, the mobile vehicle should pull most of the slack from the strap, leaving just enough room for the mobile vehicle to get up a little speed before pulling on the stuck one. The mobile vehicle should accelerate gradually—never stomp the gas—and the driver of the stuck vehicle should put it in gear and begin applying gas as the vehicle starts to move. Bystanders should stay two to three car lengths from the vehicles and out of their path of travel in the event the strap breaks or one of the vehicles begins to slide.